Tuesday, January 29, 2008

State Of The Cocktail: Essential Roster

As an addendum to the State of the Cocktail, here's my roster of mixologists shaking up the scene, with some input from Derek Brown.

• Adam Bernbach at Bar Pilar. After helping put PS 7's bar on the map, Bernbach is now at Pilar, crafting great cocktails like the Darkside (Plymouth Gin, Marcarini Chinato Vermouth, Peychaud Bitters and spiced cherries) for one of the city's coolest watering holes.

• Tom Brown at Cork. "Tom's Rob Royce [a souped up Rob Roy] is the best version of this classic I have ever had," says Brown, Tom's brother.

• Chris Cunningham at Dino. Check out the bar's creative takes on classics, like Dean's Gold, a riff on the Negroni with Plymouth gin, Aperol Aperitivo and Antica Formula Vermouth.

• Alice Gaber at Firefly. Gaber recently took over the cozy bar at Firefly and is mixing drinks like the Quartz, a gin fizz with fresh grapefruit and blood orange juices and house-made rosemary syrup.

• Justin Guthrie at Central. I'm a big fan of the Celery Cup, the brasserie's refreshing spin on a Pimm's Cup with Dr. Brown's celery soda, Pimm's, Hendrick's gin and fresh lime juice.

• Tiffany Short at PS 7's. Short's Bolshevik — beet-infused Snow Queen vodka, lime and a whiff of lime-basil — has won many fans, myself included. The beet taste is unmistakable but the lime creates a lovely balance.

• Bill Thomas, owner of Bourbon (Adams Morgan and Glover Park), and Owen Thomson, behind the bar. Brown touts Thomas' carefully selected list of rare and obscure ryes and whiskeys. "Not exactly a cocktail joint, Bourbon is a regular watering hole of the cocktail elite," says Brown. "Get an Old Fashioned made the way it was intended to be: whiskey, bitters, twist and sugar, and save the bartenders from all the shaking, cutting and garnishing. Yes, that's right, the Old Fashioned is sans fruit, save a twist in its original recipe."

• Todd Thrasher at PX and Restaurant Eve. Garnering regular national attention for his creations, Thrasher makes much of his bar's stock including cola, tonic and numerous flavors of bitters. Ingredients brought in from outside are carefully sourced. That egg in your flip, for example, may come from the now-famous Polyface Farm.

• Chantal Tseng at Tabard Inn. She "serves a top notch gin martini in classic proportions with bitters, along with a few other thoughtful beverages on Wednesday nights," Brown reveals. And of course there's the inn's classic hot buttered rum.

• Sebastian Zutant at Proof. As wine director, Zutant's focus is vino but he can make a mighty fine cocktail as well. The Gambler blends Jack Daniels, maraschino liquor, sweet vermouth and house pickled cherries.

On the move ...
• Gina Chersevani, formerly of Rasika
• Will Earls, formerly of Hudson

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